This is the Sami capital of Norway. The town is deserted since most of the people are away at the coast with the reindeer. We ate pizza in a tiny, very downbeat shopping mall in the centre. The young, large, amiable lad who served us was excited by this unexpected opportunity to practise his English. He quizzed us about our journey and our route, but seemed to have something on his mind. Finally he blurted out, incredulously, emphasising his last two words;
What are you doing here?
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