Moving from the infamously cold west coast of Finland to the south seems to have completed a transition from 'North' to somewhere that isn't quite so. It's noticably milder here. This is our first sophisticated big city since Stockholm and we both like it. It's a university town with all that that entails. It has canals, young (and older) people on bicycles and lots of polite, friendly though never intrusive, Finns.
We listened to an organ recital in the cathedral last night. It was overwhelming. And there was something cleansing, pure, about listening to music without being able to see the performer.